Friday, November 26, 2010

Tamba Turkey Day



In Austin and Spence's battle for the wishbone, Austin was triumphant.




The Tamba family before we ate out holiday feast.



Melissa and Erica ecstatic about our delicious Thanksgiving meal.



I made squash and apple pies...yummy!

This thanksgiving, I am so grateful for my friends and family, here in Senegal and in America. For the love and support of everyone that not only gets me through each day, but makes every day meaningful and memorable! I appreciate and love you all more than words can express!

PS: Rava and Papa, Aunt Kim and Uncle Bill and Lisa thank you so much for your wonderful packages! So many sweet treats and thoughtful gifts! You made my Thanksgiving extra special!

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Holidays

October 31st Tambacounda (my region) hosted Halloween for the Peace Corps Volunteers of Senegal, thus, naming it Hallacounda. Hallacounda was quite the success, with stations like palm reading and reach boxes. We rented speakers and drank creatively creepy drinks, while dancing the night away.



This is Leah, Anna, Kim and I dressed as EGOT's. Yeah I didn't know what that was either. Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, Tony...Basically just a reason for us to wear all gold. The best thing about holidays are that they are a reason to see friends from other regions that we get entirely too little contact with.

On the holiday note, Tabaski recently passed. This is the most important Islamic holiday. I spent it in village with my family and it seemed pretty much the same as Korite to me. We woke up early to drumming at the mosque and ate a soup of macaroni noodles and palm oil that we soaked up with bread for breakfast. I know, how refreshing, but this is seriously a treat for my village.

After breakfast I gave my family some Tabaski gifts. After my mom heard that my family here in Senegal loves Parcheesi, she sent an amazing board my way. The center is mosques and the pawns are yaks, camels, elephants and hyennas. It could not be more perfect for an Islamic, Senegalese, Parcheesi loving bunch. I wrapped it up like a Christmas present and they opened it Tabaski morning and LOVED it.

We then went to mosque and prayed and greeted people. After mosque we returned home to slaughter our goat, like every other family does to commemorate Tabaski. Surprisingly, I watched the entire process. I don't particularly like the idea of killing an animal, but here in village it is completely justified. Plus, we eat meat all the time in America not thinking twice about where it came from. At one point it to was not in the boneless, skinless refrigerated section of the supermarket. Just another reality check.



I thought I'd spare you the slaughter photos. This is my brother and father blessing the goat before they killed it.

The rest of Tabaski, I went around Medina Bloc spending time with the families of my village and eating various meals. My sister-in-law and I brought her parents lunch, which I carried on my head all the way to their house, no big deal. At night everyone put on their new outfits, bought for the occasion, and walked around the village greeting one another and having random fits of dance. All in all, it was a successful Tabaski.

Thank you for all the love from home! I've gotten so much of it lately :o) Aunt Kim, Uncle Bill and Susan thank you so much for the packages filled to the brim with delicious treats. Jannis, the letters from all your students made my week. They were so funny and creative! I love and miss everyone! I'll be home for Christmas, not only in my dreams(!!!) and can't wait to love on everyone back home!

Weather Report Senegal

The rains have stopped here in Tambacounda and harvest is in full swing, as is frog season. The mosquitoes have gotten better, but I chase an average of five frogs out of my room on a daily basis. October was a hot one because the rain wasn't here to cool us down. As November has moved in temperatures have dropped a bit...Alhumdulilah. It's still sweaty during the day, but evenings and early mornings are what dreams are made of. They are chilly and feel like a spring morning in Indiana.



Everyone keeps talking about this “cold season,” and my response was that they were all crazy. I will believe it when I see it. Then, a couple weeks ago, I awoke at 4am freezing. I put on my extra cozy fleece, slipped into 40 degree approved sleeping bag, covered that with a sheet and tucked everything around so tight that only my face was exposed. Then, after much contemplation, not wanting to leave my comfort, I decided I needed to get out of bed and see what the temperature was. 72 degrees. Pathetic. The coldest it has been, that I have seen so far, is 68 degrees in the middle of the night. My bones will turn to ice in shatter in America, of that I am sure.



My family huddles around a fire every night, which I find hysterical because it started when it dropped down to about 80 degrees. While people complain about the cold I attempt to explain ice that falls from the sky in America. My family here has seen pictures of my American family sledding and building snowmen. Most times the older generation reverts to, oh that's sand. No it really is ice from the sky, I insist. They look at it contemplatively and turn the albums page. My brother says it snows here every morning of the cold season. I think he is talking about dew. I don't believe it eve frosts because everyone says this is the opportune time to grow vegetables.

I still have yet to accept the existence of cold season until it affects the days more. When I am hot enough to sweat through my clothes and bathe numerous times a day it is not officially winter. As of now, I am only cold in the middle of the night and when I bucket bathe in the morning (sometimes painfully cold for those.) Bring it on Senegal winter.

Harvest is happening here in Senegal. First, the corn was harvested, then the millet and another grain I don't know in English, followed by rice, now is peanut harvest, then, supposedly beans and cotton. People go to the fields every morning and sometimes I join them, but more often I help them when they have returned.

We spent many a late night husking corn. We also take the kernels off the cob, which is really hard with brand new corn. Sometimes we put corn cobs in a bag and beat it with a branch. This is by far my favorite task. We do it so that we can pound and cook the corn immediately, because by now last years food supply has run out. Rice is just dried and pounded to remove the outer shell. Shelling peanuts is a part of my everyday life now. Every single night, my sisters, moms and I sit around the fire and shell buckets of peanuts. I actually have peanut shelling callouses I am quite proud of. Such is harvest.

Behavior Change

Frustrations have been building up lately in terms of BEHAVIOR CHANGE! This is one of the most difficult, if not THE most difficult part of my work here in Senegal. Some days I feel like I talk, talk, talk and it goes in one ear and out the other. My kid has malaria, everyone in our family has the flu, diarrhea is making my baby tired, I've had 5 babies die, I can't afford to go to the health hut, etc. It's both frustrating and heartbreaking to have so much information and advice for all of these situations and have no one actually make the change to better their health and that of their family. I'm trying to keep from being cynical and have positive thoughts that I am 'planting seeds,' but that is more easily said than done.

I've thrown a few teenage temper tantrums with my family recently regarding priorities/behavior change lately. The first was with my brother and sister in law. They have a one year old named Mamadu that had eye infections on his upper and lower lids that just continued to get worse. I kept urging them to take him to the health post but to no avail. Finally, a Spanish NGO was in town and they were giving close to free consultations and free medicine. My sister agreed to come with me and bring her baby after we all ate breakfast. I ate my breakfast and then went to get them. “We are not going anymore. I have to go to the field today. We don't have money.” I was infuriated. My response was a very mature. “FINE! If you don't want your baby to have health, he won't have health. Wait until he is blind if you want!” Followed by an even more mature kicking off of my shoes before entering my room and slamming my door.

We ended up going to the health post and the Spanish nurses said that without treatment Mamadu could easily have become blind. His infections were severe and they urged my sister to some back the next week if the infections were still present. The infections got better, but that was weeks ago and they are still here. Needless to say, they have not gone back for a second treatment.

The second little fit I threw concerned school supplies. About a week before school started I went to talk to all the teachers and ended up with the school supply lists for my three siblings that attend school. I had a gut feeling that no one would actually purchase any of these materials so I began to talk to my dad about how important it was. His response, “God willing, I will buy them. Save the list until market day.” Surprisingly enough, market day came and God didn't will it. After many words were had, I ended up buying the school supplies and telling my dad I was deducting it from what I usually paid him a month (for living and food expenses).

My family is very poor , but I pay them a small amount each month that they could put towards health and education, but instead quickly disappears. I don't think they are squandering this money, but I also know that they would have to get by without my. Anything I pay them should be extra.

Third tantrum...(sorry, you may be getting sick of this, but seriously it is my life.) Hand washing. Something I have gotten my family to sometimes take part in. Everyone eats with their hands and tissues and toilet paper are not existent in the village, which also leaves the hands. This is not a pretty equation. Today I sat down around the bowl I share with my dad, two moms, younger sister and neice and asked where the soap was.

Mom #1: “The soap is gone.” Me: There is a shop right there, why has no one bought any?” Mom #1: “There is no money. I didn't even drink tea today.” Me: “Mom, little bugs (germs) are on your hands and you are eating them. Then they go to your stomach and make you sick,” Mom #1: “I don't see them.” Me: “ It is like God. You don't see him but you believe he exists. The germs are there.” Mom #2 (and what really set me off): “Do people in America use soap?” Me: “Yes” Mom #2: “And they still die?” Me: “Yes, but,” Mom #2: “That's what I thought. Let's eat.”

I excused myself I said I would not be eating. My dad followed me to my room and said that if I didn't eat he would not either. I explained how rude it was of second mom to say that, but ended up eating with my family because I had a meeting directly following that my dad attended and as village chief, with politics I needed him to be supportive of my program.

My role is so tricky. I want to take everyone, especially the kiddos, and fix their problems. When it comes to health and education, my heart wants to give everyone medicine and pay for all the kids to go to school, but in the end that is clearly not my role here. When I leave, that would only leave everyone in the same rut that they wee in before I came to Medina Bloc.

Women's Care Group

The Women's Care Group officially began the 6th of November. This is the program in which there are 10 female village volunteers that meet with my counterparts and I bi-weekly to discuss a health topic and do theater and/or activities related to the topic. Each women is then in charge of sharing that information with the 10 households nearest to her compound. The idea is that all three villages involved will receive 100% coverage and slowly, slowly, health knowledge will begin to sink in and behavior change will start to take place.



The kickoff had its ups and downs. The volunteers were wonderful, but there was some drama between my dad and counterpart and unfortunately my dad very inappropriately brought it up and argued loudly in front of everyone for quite some time, putting a damper on everything. He continued to bring it up throughout the meeting, infuriating me.

After issues were put aside, we talked about flu prevention, how to avoid giving everyone the flu once you have it, and how to get rid of the flu. The women were all very interactive, even in front of the village chiefs, religious leaders and health committee members present. It assured me that they were the right women for the job. They asked questions, answered questions and acted out skits without embarrassment. The kickoff ended with drinks, each woman receiving a uniform and visual aids, and then we had a tam-tam, which is a drum and dance circle.



Since then, my dad and I have thankfully resolved all of our issues and the Care Group has gone house to house with flu information. We had our second meeting last week. This time diarrhea was the topic. The women were even more wonderful and with only the volunteers and my counterparts it was much more like a comfortable family setting. I am really excited about this project and the possible outcomes. I have to remind myself that behavior change takes time and nothing happens fast in Senegal. It's likely I will never see the results, but hopefully something good will come of it.